Jukar spain ball and cap11/15/2022 ![]() ![]() Even when Colt and Smith and Wesson introduced superior cartridge firing revolvers the old cap and ball revolvers remained popular. When the war ended cap and ball revolvers remained popular. Although pĬolt Walker percussion cap and ball revolverĪper cartridges made percussion revolvers more efficient they were still cumbersome when compared to cartridge revolvers. The paper cartridges made loading faster and were simply inserted in the cylinder and then capped. These were typically never seen in the war, however.ĭuring the war paper cartridges for percussion cap and ball revolvers were made. and the Smith and Wesson handguns which fired self contained metallic cartridges. During the American civil war, which lasted from 1861 to 1865, the majority of revolvers were cap and ball with the exception of certain companies such as the Volcanic Repeating Arms Co. ![]() The issue of loading in adverse conditions, such as wind and wetness, were still present however as exposed powder could be blown away or made wet when pouring it into the gun. They relied on the loading of loose powder and ball, and although this meant that the gun would be slow to load, usually requiring around three to four minutes, the method was practical and dependable. This was the first of many revolvers, and many other gun companies, such as Remington, also started creating cap and ball revolvers during the 1850s. ![]() Samuel Colt created the first practical percussion cap revolver in 1836. Any rust pitting can hold a spark which will set off the next charge as you are loading, or it might just be a sign that your gun has become a lurking pipe bomb.The cap and ball loading method is one of the first practical methods of loading a revolver. Always check the bore before firing, run a clean patch down and/or use a light to look for dirt or rust. I suspect it doesn't matter much what you use, as long as you USE IT. A patch tip can be helpful, and a ball extractor may be a good idea, too.Įveryone has their favorite cleaning recipes and especially oils or lubricants. Some folks use modern cleaning rods, but I find that a period-correct worm (a double spiral fitting that screws onto the threaded end of the ramrod) is all I need. You'll probably need to run a fine wire through the vent to keep that clear.Īnd yes, ALL fouling is very corrosive, so if you fire your musket once, it will need to be completely cleaned. On a percussion lock, the fouling from the caps will be more tenacious, I believe, but WD-40 or some other solvent should do the trick. Note that black sulfurous water will shoot out the touchhole during cleaning, so it's best done outdoors! Clean and wipe the outside of barrel and stock, too. Then run cloth patches through until they come out clean, then finish with a little oil. I just pour hot water down the bore, and run a "worm" on the ramrod up and down a few times. ![]() On my flintlock, the lock is easily removed with 2 screws and cleaned separately. That will vary for folks who shoot regularly! (I don't, unfortunately.)īlack powder fouling is water soluble, so cleaning is mostly done with hot water. Bullets for smoothbores are typically a little smaller than the caliber of the barrel, for fast loading even after some fouling builds up. You can get FFF or "3F" powder from gun stores, maybe from some outdoor suppliers (depending on the area). ![]()
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